Dolphins of Greece 18 (2-9 October 2010)

I have had a wonderful week, seeing so many different dolphin behaviours and many sea birds including flamingos, cormorants and terns. Marina and Joe have made it special with their enthusiasm and anecdotes of a broad range of experiences in the field. I shall return to work refreshed and with an enhanced understanding of the importance of dolphins in their ecosystem.

Kate (UK)

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It was an amazing week from several points of view – to meet so different and interesting people and to work together in such a wonderful project. I learned a lot about the dolphins, their life and behaviour, about the sea – how big, how great and at the same time how unprotected it is. When you learn something new, that really touches your mind, you start to think in a different way and consequently you change your deeds. Moreover, you try to share this experience with the other people and hopefully can make the surrounding world a little bit better. I also hope that the data we have managed to collect will be helpful for the further scientific work. This week in Vonitsa impressed me a lot and I would like to say thank you very much to Marina and Joe and all the people from our Team.

Eugenia (Russia)

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Thanks to the weather, to a great team, to the dolphins and to Greece. It was a wonderful time and experience I have got. I do not think I would be able to get such an experience anywhere else and I hope I made a tiny contribution to the process of improvement of the environment. Let’s hope that the next teams and generations see how beautiful it is. Dolphins are wonderful creatures and have their right to survive as all the rest creatures in the world. The project was organised on very high professional level, exactly what was required for the effective work and team building exercise. My personal gratitude to Marina and Joe, for their professionalism and kind attention to the team, they were able to create the right atmosphere to give the feeling to every member of the importance of their contribution. The whole team was excellent, and everyone had a chance to use his or her knowledge and experience. I learned a lot, I hope to continue to cooperate with Earthwatch institute to take part in future projects. I wish all the best and every success to Tethys in their difficult and generous task. Thanks again and all the best!

Sergey (Kazakhstan)

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Our week in Vonitsa has been amazing. Marina’s enthusiasm for her subject (botany excluded?) and life in general made all the week a joy, not just the dolphin recording and watching. Flamingos, seagulls, schools of small fish boiling the sea waters, exploring islands and local community living, all added to the experience in which watching dolphins bow-riding was the highlight. Joe’s helpful, good-humour and interest in the work encouraged us. He and Marina worked (worked well together to make up the whole brilliant team) with an interesting group of fellow volunteers. Thank you to all who made the week possible.

Judith and George (UK)

Dolphin researcher dealing with a bad knee

Following an injury and many years jumping on inflatable boats, Giovanni recently got his second run of surgery on his left knee. Thanks to such surgery he can now walk again, but more standing on choppy waters would not be a good idea. Therefore, Gio recovered an old seat from an abandoned car, built a wooden stand, and installed his "masterpiece" on the Tethys inflatable. This allows him to remain seated during surveys on wavy seas, while enjoying an appropriately high eye elevation. Gio claims the seat is comfortable and he is happy to have returned to work at sea.

Silvia Bonizzoni

Monk seal # 2

Second encounter with a monk seal in the Gulf of Evia (see previous post). This animal was observed for an hour engaging in food search in a murky bay, not far from an industrial plant. She performed dives approximately 4-6 min long followed by about 30 sec of ventilations. During those 30 sec spent at the surface we could watch the seal in all her beauty while she was elegantly swimming, staring at us from time to time (photo). While she did not seem exceedingly wary of the boat, she never came closer than 30-50 m. This is a wise behaviour, considering that monk seals in the coastal waters of Greece are still sometimes seen as vermin, and shot.

Giovanni Bearzi

Monk seal lunch

Our first day of work in the Gulf of Evia did not have dolphins to offer, but an amazing and unexpected encounter with a monk seal who was having lunch at the surface. The seal had a large octopus in his mouth and he was forcefully and repeatedly shaking it with the head out of the water, producing splashes that could be seen from far away. We speculated he intended to kill the octopus before eating it. We approached at slow speed up to about 50 m to observe this unusual behaviour, and the monk seal did not appear disturbed. He finished his lunch, gazed at us, then moved away. We managed to capture some phases of the octopus lunch, but most photos were blurry due to the distance, except for the one shown here, which even when magnified was sharp enough to capture the fierce look of this large and critically endangered marine mammal.

Giovanni Bearzi

Bug bite

I set out at the beginning of this experience with the aim of broadening my understanding of cetaceans and hoped to use it to gain more of an insight into the field of Cetology. I’ve always held a deep fascination for the sea and all its inhabitants. So, when I was lucky enough to be offered this opportunity to get to know it a little bit better, I was really thrilled.

After almost 8 months of waiting for the time to depart on this journey, I arrived in Vonitsa, like a sponge, ready to absorb as much as I could. I will be the first to admit that I might have glamorized the whole concept of studying dolphins in my head, during the last 8 months. However, Joan was quick to bring my head out of the clouds and put feet back down on the ground. Right from the very beginning I learned that working on a project with volunteers involved three separate but equally important skills. The first being able to help in the data collection whilst conducting surveys and then be able to analyse the photos of every encounter. The second, was being able to communicate and connect with the volunteers in a way that provided them with the means to play their own role in the projects development. The final skill was taking care of the domestic affairs. I was surprised to see the amount of effort that had to go into keeping the day-to-day functioning of the project running smoothly and tried my best to keep it that way. Although, whether I succeeded in that final respect is up to Joan. Still, all this effort paled into insignificance whenever I reflected on how lucky I was to be in a position where encounters with wild dolphins were an almost daily pleasure.

The peak of this joy was on the 18th September, in Kalamos of all places. It was business as usual at the Tethys field base. Arising early with the sunrise, we left bleary-eyed from our base in Vonitsa, in the Amvrakikos Gulf. We drove to the nearby area of Kalamos from where we were to embark on what most of us had resigned ourselves to as a survey without much hope. As we cast off from the Mytikas, Joan the principle investigator (a title given to him, much to his own distaste) drove our small rib into an ethereal mist shrouding the nearby island of Kalamos. A former watery Eden, up until 1997 had a healthy population of 150 common dolphins. Sadly, however, the population suffered a dramatic decline, from about 150 to 15 in just 15 years. This was primarily the result of overfishing, which led to the depletion of their prey. However, a mere ten minutes into our survey, Joan calls out excitedly, “Dolphins, three o’clock, horizon!” We all spin round and gaze expectantly at the area that Joan has steered the boat towards. We stare intently for the next thirty seconds and with no dorsal fin sighted, we thought perhaps Joan had been mistaken. Then, they surfaced again! Black shapes arching majestically out of the water, around 500 metres straight in front of us. Delighted, there was a collective intake of breath as the sheer size of the pod that we had found became apparent. At least 10 individuals were cruising along in front of the boat. However, the best was yet to come. Joan calls out “They’re common dolphins!”. Utterly astonished, we all jumped to our stations, Joan and myself yelling out instructions. Joan’s excitement, infectious. Elated calls from our volunteers began raining in providing us valuable information on dolphin numbers and location with respect to our boat, by putting into practice the well rehearsed procedures, originally taught role-playing on the beach back in Vonitsa and honed during a week spent observing the bottlenose dolphins of the Amvrakikos Gulf. We were lucky enough to remain with them for the next three hours, trying to collect as much data as possible on this important encounter. We watched with delight as they lounged about, just stretching near the surface. The day was topped off by a sighting of a newborn common dolphin, who like any regular kid, was bursting with energy keeping the adults from resting. However, despite the feeling of euphoria on board, the passing-by of two large bottom trawlers, heading to their fishing grounds, provided a sobering reminder that lessons had still not been learnt.

During the journey back to port, the atmosphere onboard the zodiac was palpable. Each member talked animatedly about such and such a sighting that they had had, despite the fact that we had all seen the same. Finally, it was with a feeling of great satisfaction, contentment and pride that we all disembarked from the boat. We drove back to Vonitsa exhausted, but with the knowledge that we had all witnessed something special.

For me personally, this experience was the culmination of three years of hard work in getting to where I hoped to be and sheer good luck that I had been offered this opportunity. I write this with two weeks of this incredible adventure to go and feel incredibly privileged to have had the opportunity to meet such a wide range of people from all over the world; to be able to work with such a beautiful species in their natural environment; and to have been taught so much by Joan and Marina, who, together, offer a staggering amount of knowledge and insight. They have both, each in their own unique and completely different way, conveyed a feeling that will be hard to forget. I fear I have been bitten by the same "bug" and it will be with a heavy heart that I finally leave to return to England, but also a content one, knowing that this experience has been everything that I could have wished it to be.

Joe Treddenick

Gulf of Corinth: the 2010 research season ends

The dolphin research project in the Gulf of Corinth has recently concluded its second research season, scoring a total of 61 dolphin sightings.

We had many pleasant encounters with marine life. 

We saw all four cetacean species that inhabit the Gulf: bottlenose, striped, short-beaked common and a single Risso’s dolphin.

And also 402 encounters with jellyfish Cothyloriza tubercolata, 23 with loggerhead turtles Caretta caretta, 82 with tuna and 5 with swordfish.

Happy and satisfied about the work done this year, we are grateful to all the volunteers who participated in the field courses, helped us with the research and shared with us every single moment at sea. 



A big THANK YOU to our 63 volunteers who came from 16 nations: Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Singapore, Spain, Switzerland, UK, and USA:


Frédéric, Laurence, Jillian, Christine, Kate, Sacha, Joanna, Ellis, Ann, Nathalie, Khai Lin, Amanda, Valentina, Rachel, Iris, Graham, Joy, Chrystelle, Lisbet, Katrine, Cornelia, Kate, Jamie, Dagmar, Chloe, Allan, Marie-Eve, Merry, Aislinn, Siobhan, Mirjam, Laura, Riccardo, Dominique, Emily, Karen, Jakub, Valentina, Christina, Russell, Gabriella, Dimitiros, Claudia, Nicole, Andrea, Frédéric, Alison, Suzanne, Marta, Nathan, Steven, Laura, Beatrice, Kathryn, Joana, Ana Caterina, Philipp, Lydia, Yasmine, Gabriele, Lois, Pierandrea, and Jennifer (in order of participation).

Silvia and the Hellenic Dolphins team 2010

Dolphins of Greece 17 (21-28 September)

Thanks to the staff (including Posi) for sharing your dolphins with us. I am glad we had a couple of wonderful weather days to witness these special animals and I hope the data collected continues to benefit their health.

Jean (USA)

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Participating in field research has been extremely interesting, with the help of Joan, Joe and especially the dolphins. The week has certainly caused me to re-examine my place in the whole ecosystem, from scuba diving to home aquariums to fishing and multiple other aspects of my daily life that I didn’t think about much in the past. Thanks to all who made this week possible.

Kim (USA)

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The weather didn’t cooperate very well but due to the extraordinary efforts of Joan and Joe we were able to maximize the experience. I appreciated the detailed explanations of the nuts and bolts of marine research. I look forward to reading the forthcoming papers.

Tom (USA)

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This was my opportunity to return to Vonitsa and the dolphins for the second year. I have dreamed of this week for the last 12 months, and memories did not fail. The quiet pace of Vonitsa with the freshest of air, combined with sparkling water and socializing dolphins…  a truly special experience. Thank you, Earthwatch and Tethys. May all our best wishes come true for the creatures of our oceans!

Karin (USA)

Dolphins of Greece 16 (12-19 September)

Thanks for the great time in Vonitsa. We had 4 days of dolphin sightings and they were all different and special. The most beautiful day was on Saturday when we saw 10 common dolphins around Kalamos island. That made me very happy and gave me a feeling that there is still hope. To live so close with the other volunteers was a bit scary in the beginning. But I feel that we are a wonderful group and we became close friends. I laughed so much the last week. I am sure that we will keep in touch. I loved being with you all on that trip. Joan, you are a wonderful (and very handsome) instructor with a lot of knowledge and passion. Thanks for everything. I had a wonderful time. Joe, keep on going. No matter in which direction. Keep on travelling. Thanks for everything.

Vanessa (Germany)

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This was my 28th Earthwatch expedition so I knew it would be another great experience and indeed I was very ,very pleased with the whole project. We had splendid sightings and an amazing turn of good fortune when we were able to study a pod of common dolphins; something which had not been observed here for several years. It was a delight to have a team with volunteers from Switzerland, Germany, Australia and 2 of us from California. The friendship and camaraderie was excellent and I feel we will be keeping in touch. The actual work was VERY interesting, and even when no dolphins were observed we were surrounded by beautiful scenery and splendid weather. Meals were excellent and quite often we succumbed to the temptations of local restaurants. Joan, our team leader, showed incredible knowledge about the dolphins, seeming to be aware of their location and able to predict where they would emerge. He is able to memorise their positions, location, numbers in groups, all in a whirlwind of action at times. Joe, too has a splendid grasp of all the activity . A wonderful opportunity to observe dolphins, create new bonds of friendship , AND … very important… help protect these amazing creatures.

George (USA)

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I want to tell you how much I enjoyed this exciting meeting with the dolphins. When I saw "my first one ever" my heart missed a beat! I will not forget being surrounded by these elegant, wonderful animals. Great to see newborns with their mothers, too! Special thanks go to Joan and Joe. On this team I got more exciting information than on any of my previous 12 Earthwatch expeditions due to Joan and his great knowledge and outstanding love for dolphins. Joe was very helpful and patient. As we were a team with only 5 members, we were very dependent on each other and now, at the end of the project we can say goodbye to real friends who we shall never forget. We had happy days together and laughed a lot but with my poor English I could not fully understand and follow all the jokes. Back home at Zurich with my memories, I will still be close to the project and I hope it will continue with your affection and care for the dolphins. Thanks so much for this wonderful and memorable experience!

Anneliese (Switzerland)

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Vonitsa and it’s dolphins have been all I expected plus more. Seeing the animals in their natural habitat was wonderful. Joan, sharing your knowledge of the dolphins helped me to better understand their nature and not expect what the aquariums show us. Especially exciting was seeing the common dolphins on our last day. Your enthusiasm as well as Joe's let us know how special this sighting was. Joe, you were so helpful and friendly, thank you. Good luck to you in whatever you decide to do. The village has been so friendly, the environment so pretty and the weather collaborated to make it a perfect Earthwatch experience. Of course the team members were one of the top ingredients; we all worked so well together. I will recommend the project to my friends.

Nikki (USA)

Ionian Dolphins 16 (12-18 September)

This is the last team of the Gulf of Corinth 2010 season, and a most lucky one: all the four cetacean species inhabiting the Gulf of Corinth have been sighted (including the rare Risso's dolphin, see post by Philippa Dell). And then sea turtles, a 2m-long dead tuna floating adrift, and thousands of beautiful Cotylorhiza jellyfish, with the additional blessing of sunny weather and pleasant temperature. A terrific closure for an outstanding research season.

Giovanni Bearzi
Project manager and science coordinator, Coastal Dolphins

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Cetacean research, meaning several hours on an inflatable surrounded by dolphins and the occasional sea turtle or 2m tuna  = WOW. Being on the water, learning about cetaceans, the local ecosystems and their conservation; it’s been incredible. We’ve been lucky, our team were the first to see  all four dolphin species here, I even got to name ‘our’ Risso's dolphin, ‘Papou’, Greek for Grandpa. At times words can be so inadequate, incredible and lucky don’t do it justice. I’ve spent most of each day stoked, beaming from ear to ear. The respect that I feel for this planet and the creatures that inhabit it is stronger than ever. That includes the humans here, corny as that may all sound. A huge thank you to the generous, and hilarious, Tethys' team Silvia, Philippa and Giovanni; and to my only slightly crazy team mates, Yasmine, Lois, Gabriele and Piero have been fabulous. I’ll be spreading the word.

Jennifer, England

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Observing Nature is the best show you can find.

Pierandrea, Italy

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I’ve been on several vacation/volunteer dolphin trips and not once have I been lucky to go out all scheduled days and, on top of that, lucky enough to see all four kinds of dolphins. It almost makes up for “THE HILL”. Keep doing the work and change will happen. Good luck.

Lois, USA

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Ciaooo! It will not be so easy to express in a few words all the thoughts passing by on my mind during these days... but anyway: I will remember the professionality and passion of all researchers (Giovanni, Silvia, Philippa and all other guys of the Tethys team) spending their days with us and the dolphins. I will be so proud to diffuse to all my friends all things learnt during our surveys suggesting them to partecipate to this project. And I will remember terms such as Arial, Stationary, Percussive, New Station... I would be so happy to continue to work as a volunteer on this project, even if my feeling with NETPAD is no so good eh eh eh. ANYWAY:  thanks a lot! Ah!!!! I am forgetting the most important thing: a special thanks to Yasmine, Jennifer, Lois and Piero for all the days spent together. Goodbye, and see you asap!

Gabriele, Italy

The Comfort of Others

Searching for dolphins in a rough sea can often be a frustrating activity for a cetacean researcher, with every wave and white-cap a constant source of distraction. At some point, however, the reward for hours of concentration can be presented before you, as the research team in the Gulf of Corinth found yesterday morning. At the sudden appearance of an unusually large dorsal fin, I progressed through a process of alarm, confusion, and eventual enlightenment as the Principal Investigator, Silvia Bonizzoni, began to emit ultrasonic squeaks, bouncing up and down behind the steering wheel.  We had chanced upon a sighting of the elusive Risso’s dolphin! 

Sightings of Risso’s dolphin are hardly common in the Gulf of Corinth – researchers at the Pelagos Cetacean Research Institute of Greece have documented only two individuals in the entire area. The Tethys team themselves have spotted this species only once prior to today’s sighting, identified subsequently as the same individual sighted yesterday. Thus it is perhaps understandable that professionality climbed out of the boat and swam off for the initial few minutes of the sighting, as Silvia and I proceeded to jump about the boat, exclaiming in barely-restrained elation.

Observing this magnificent creature, even for a short period of time, reveals the true extent of their behavioural complexity. Throughout the duration of the sighting, this large dolphin was exhibiting what could only be described as ‘play’ behaviour, nosing up underneath a Cotylorhiza jellyfish, flipping it back and forth between caudal and dorsal fin. The true purpose behind this activity is unknown - due to our regrettable inability to communicate with the individual – however, it may be theorised that this behaviour arises as a result of social exclusion from its own kind, or simply a reflection of the complex ‘personality’ traits exhibited by higher order mammals in this way. However anthropomorphic it may seem, the Risso’s was visibly enjoying itself, albeit to the extent of the unfortunate jellyfish.

The most striking point of interest taken from this sighting was the presence of the single Risso’s dolphin amongst a mixed group of striped and common dolphins. The astoundingly high level of interaction between the Risso’s and the other dolphin species indicated how deeply integrated the individual has become. Gliding side by side, the striped, common and Risso’s dolphins give a lesson in the achievement of peaceful co-habitation.

Border disputes and territory skirmishes mean nothing to these animals, as newborn striped dolphins hurtle themselves across the water surface in and around the larger un-related animal. The trust exhibited by the striped and common dolphins towards the Risso’s – in tight formation for the majority of the sighting - leaves the observer incredulous. The individual exhibited apparent protective behaviour over the smaller dolphins - encircling the boat, remaining in a constant shielding position between our vessel and the focal group. The animal maintained an aura of both dominance and care, ensuring the safety and security of those individuals that have welcomed it into their social network in the absence of its own kind.

What struck my pensive mind during the sighting was the juxtaposition of this inter-specific trust and integration, with the equivalent human context above the sea. We humans instigate whole dossiers of law and legislation before any form if immigration program can be established in a country. In our world, sociality is often divided by race, religion, borders and resources. Life for us is to be fought, not shared. The marine mammal microcosmos, however, is apparently untouched by such forms of division. Whilst our people are torn apart by petty disputes, these animals have found a way to co-exist and benefit from that which is necessary to all living creatures – the comfort of others.

Philippa Dell

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Relevant literature:

Frantzis A., Herzing D. 2002. Mixed-species associations of striped dolphins (Stenella coeruleoalba), short beaked common dolphins (Delphinus delphis) and Risso’s dolphins (Grampus griseus) in the Gulf of Corinth (Greece, Mediterranean Sea). Aquatic Mammals 28(2):188-197.

Ionian Dolphins 15 (5-11 September)

What an amazing experience... after selfishly taking 6 months off work for a holiday through Europe I needed to satisfy an inclination I have had for my whole life to learn more and somehow contribute to wildlife conservation. Spending a week in Galaxidi contributing to dolphin research seemed to be the perfect opportunity. Living in Australia I have constantly been surrounded by the ocean - but lacked the knowledge to truly understand the amazing creatures we have encountered during this stay. Not only have Silvia and Philippa heightened my passion for marine conservation, but also given me the necessary information that as a teacher in Australia, I can use to educate my peers and students (in particular about supporting sustainable fishing methods). It has not only been the practical aspects out in the ocean tracking and analysing dolphin behaviour that has been a highlight - but the lectures and discussions which have motivated me to somehow make a difference on my return home to protect our oceans and all the marine life that inhabit it (though not quite sure how to do this yet). Tethys: you are doing a brilliant job... it's people like you that actually make a difference in the world and I am certainly one of many who appreciate it - just don't always know how to help. So hopefully being a part of this volunteer program is a small step. One day someone will listen and make a change! Thank you so much for an amazing experience, amazing people and a week that I will always remember.

Lydia, Australia

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Ein wirklich ungewoehnlicher “Urlaub”: Ich hatte keine Ahnung, was mich hier erwartet; und jetzt blicke ich auf eine sehr schoene und interessante Woche zurueck. Ich hatte tatsaechlich viel Glueck: eine wirklich nette Gruppe und Crew, viele Delfine, Schildkroeten, Quallen, ..., interessante Diskussionen – viel gesehen, gelernt und gelacht. Danke dafuer an alle! Im Idealfall hat mein Aufenthalt hier auch irgendwo, irgendwann etwas geholfen – sei es bei der Arbeit hier, sei es durch Weitersagen, die Bilder, die Eindruecke,...; ich gebe mein Bestes ;) Was mich wirklich beeindruckt hat, ist dass Silvia nach so langer Zeit immer noch so viel Freude an der Sache hat – ihre Freude ueber einen gesichteten Delfin ist wundervoll! Macht weiter so! Ich wuensche euch viel Erfolg dabei.

Philipp, Germany

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Etudiante en science de l’environnement, les recherches du Tethys Institute m’interressait beaucoup et en venant en Grece a Galaxidi je n’ai pas ete decue ! Parcourir la mer a la recherche de dauphins est une experience incroyable que je recommande a ceux qui se preoccupe de la sauvegarde de notre si belle planete et de sa magnifique biodiversite. Le dauphin est un animal tellement impressionant, attachant que les menaces qu’il subit sans cesse sont d’autant plus importante. Il est temps d’agir et avec ce projet, l’equipe du Tethys Institute fait un travail genial! Silvia et Philippa sont des passionees qui partagent leur savoir, qui nous font rire et decouvrir un monde magique! Je ne garde que de superbes souvenirs de cette magnifique experience.

Yasmine, Suisse

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When I decided to become a volunteer for Tethys research group in Galaxidi, I did so because I thought it would be great for my future as a marine biologist and would help me be 100% sure about becoming a marine mammal researcher. Now, after this amazing experience, I can say this week surpassed my expectations and that I’m completly sure of what I want to do with my professional future. Seeing dolphins and other cetaceans in captivity can be very exciting, but seeing them in the wild, in their natural habitat makes you feel incredibly lucky and makes you feel the need to help them in every way you possibly can. At the end of the week, it wasn’t only about being a researcher or seeing dolphins, was also about the people involved, the other volunteers and the researchers, and being inspired by them to continuing figthing for our oceans and trying to do the right thing for the planet every day.

Joana, Portugal

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As long as I remember I wanted to be a marine biologist because I fell in love with dolphin and with all marine mammals. So, when I discovered Tethys and this project I thought it would be perfect for me to get some tips from professionals and to find out if this is what I really want to do. It ended up being so much more than that! I learned so much about dolphins, overfishing and so many other things that I was not aware of. I knew that several fish species were on the verge of extincton because they are overfished, but I didn’t realize that the situation was that bad! Now I really want to fight and do everything I can to change this situation. Now that this amazing week is over I have realised how lucky I was. We saw dolphins every day (except in the last one) in situations that were not very common, saw sea turtles almost every day, the volunteer group was really amazing (and so, so funny), and Philippa and Silvia were awesome and very patient with us. I just hope that I can come back and that one day, in a not very distant future, I can be like Silvia and Philippa and do this kind of research for a living!

Catarina, Portugal

Dolphins of Greece 15 (3-10 September)

7 wonderful days in Vonitsa. Watching wild dolphins was my long-time dream and finally it came true. I hope future generations can enjoy such experience. I want to study more about dolphins, animals, the whole environment, and act to achieve sustainable earth. Joan, I could hardly understand your jokes, but I liked to see everyone laughing at them. You are so good at creating a cheerful mood. It was a pleasure to be with you. Thank you very much for everything! I will never forget that boat! Joe, I was so lucky to meet you at the bus terminal by accident. Thanks a lot for your kindness. Good luck in your future!

Emi (Japan)

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We had an absolutely, amazingly, wonderful time! The project is extremely well organized from the second we arrived to the moment we had to leave. We quickly learned that we were not here to just quietly watch dolphins. We were here to be a part of a real field research project! While our hearts broke to hear about the decline of dolphins around Kalamos, we treasured the precious moments with the dolphins of the Amvrakikos Gulf. Watching a juvenile dolphin jump in the air and groups of dolphins glide through the calm water was pure joy. Listening to the dolphins exhale, especially the “asthmatic” one, truly touched our souls. Of course, the last day was the most fantastic; as we were surrounded by dolphins, Joan switched off the engine and exclaimed “THIS is Amvrakikos!” and time stopped and for that moment we felt his passion for the dolphins and this beautiful place, which will stay in our hearts forever. We know the dolphins' future is in great jeopardy, as is their ocean home, and we promise to do what we can and to tell anyone that will listen about our experience. Because no matter how dismal the situation maybe, we can never stop being their voices, so that in the future, we can still loudly yell “dolphins, one o’clock, 50 meters!”. Joan and Joe, thank you so very much for creating such a wonderful experience. We hope that we can stay in touch and our paths will cross again.

Daniel & Alexandra (USA)

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This has been an extremely privileged opportunity. To be so close to the dolphins, sea turtles and to understand the consequences of human activity in the resources that Mother Nature provides. Mostly I could only watch silently in awe or go “wow, look at those amazing creatures” instead of pointing out “dolphins sighted, 6 o’clock, 50 metres” which must have exasperated Joan countless times. The facts of the dwindling marine life are quite saddening to know, and this expedition serves as a reminder that we are all so small, and connected like parts of a chain of something larger. Be it cetaceans, land animals or other resources, we must all do our bit to love our environment a little more… so that we build a world based on love and respect for all that nature provides us with. Thank you for sharing so much knowledge Joan and Joe, it has been an experience which all of us will carry and cherish for a long time.

Min (Singapore)

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I had a great time here in Vonitsa. I love this quaint, Mediterranean town and the valuable research that Tethys does. I chose this research expedition to explore a new country and to gain practical experience in marine biology – mission accomplished! I am also grateful for the “league of nations” environment that this project fosters. It was a pleasure to learn about Spanish, British, Japanese, and Singaporean culture. This will be the first of many Earthwatch research expeditions for me – perhaps I’ll even join “Dolphins of Greece” again! Best wishes in all your future endeavours.

Adria (USA)

A sighting, which was different from others

Back in 2007, I remember coming to the Amvrakikos Gulf with no previous experience. Thanks to the several months spent in the field, I am now more adept, but I still have to learn how to stand up on my own after a fall. While working in different study areas with my colleagues, I’ve got many chances of broadening my skills. Advise from my teachers Giovanni, Stefano and Joan allowed me to improve myself, but then the time arrives when one must fly away from the nest.

This time arrived earlier than I thought when Joan asked me to run a boat survey on my own. I felt fortunate to finally get such a nice opportunity and although my knees were shaking a bit, I felt joy.

On that morning, the Amvrakikos Gulf was completely flat so the circumstances were ideal. I decided to head towards the northwestern part of the Gulf. Everyone on board was eagerly scanning the sea surface until… out at 11! When the dolphins surfaced in the distance, my heart started to beat fiercely. But as we got closer I had become more focused on my several tasks, and oblivious of my initial excitement.

When I realized that there was a calf in the group, a smile appeared on my face. It is always a nice moment to see a tiny life following her mother with its clumsy surfacings. The dolphins, including the mother-calf pair, approached a fish farm. This was unexpected, because calves normally do not get close to the cages. At that moment, I realised that I wasn’t just an observer but I could understand what was going on and share this knowledge with my group of volunteers.

It was amazing to see things from another perspective compared to the sightings when I was acting as a research assistant, and someone else was in charge. Things that only a year ago appeared so overwhelmingly difficult, like driving the boat, taking good photos, recording the behaviour and directing people on board, all at once, now unfolded smoothly, and this gave me even more confidence and pleasure.

I still have a lot to learn in this field, but at least I could enjoy the feeling of being a leader for one day and experiencing how it feels to be responsible for a group of people on board, for all the data collection and for Joan’s ‘baby’, the inflatable.

In the end, everybody survived the first sighting with me. One volunteer, Jane, had a particularly good experience and her feelings came to surface after we moored the boat, back at the port, when I saw tears of joy in her eyes. Guys - it was a great experience for me, too! Thank you for being such a good team!

Zsuzsanna Pereszlényi

Sea turtle rescue off Galaxidi

Yesterday, June 26th, while we were looking for dolphins, Susan (one of our Tethys volunteers) spotted a sea turtle at the surface far away.

We reached the sighting spot and found a loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta) entangled in fishing gear. We decided to try to free her from the net, but as soon as we approached with our inflatable, she started to dive. We could see her under the water surface trying to dive deeper, but the net hampered her movements.

For some minutes we lost her. The sea was a little wavy and chances to see her underwater were low. We had almost lost hopes when the turtle surfaced again.

This time we were quicker. We approached her again and I jumped into the water to hold her. She wanted to dive, but with the help of Aina (our research assistant from Spain) and our volunteers, we managed to take her on board. She was really big! About 80 cm long and 60 cm wide.

We covered her eyes to calm her down and we freed her from a green rope 75 cm long that was wrapped around two flippers together with a piece of nylon gillnet including seven floats. The skin was not injured and as we finished removing the rope and net parts she could move her flippers properly.

We made sure she did not have any other problem. She looked fine, apart from a 10 cm wound on the carapace, probably caused by a a former collision with a boat propeller. The wound seemed to have completely healed and a few small barnacles were already attached to that area.

Then we leaned her out of the boat and released her. She dove immediately, but this time she was really quick and disappeared from sight in the blue waters of the Gulf of Corinth.

Some photos of this event can be viewed here

Silvia Bonizzoni

Andrea Catherwood joins the Tethys team at Vonitsa

What an incredible experience. Looking out across the Ionian sea at such a idyllic Greek postcard perfect scene it isn’t hard to believe there are dolphins here, but I was still unprepared for the huge thrill of observing them at such close quarters as they feed, socialise and occasionally perform aerobatics.

I feel totally immersed in another world both on water and at the field station where we live. I admit to taking a nerdish delight in learning to crop and match the photos of dolphin fins that are used to identify the dolphins we see each day and that help with the research being done to try and protect these vulnerable animals. It’s a long time since I absorbed such a lot of new information and enjoyed myself so much at the same time.

The chance to live and work with a scientist as knowledgeable and charismatic as Joan Gonzalvo is a real privilege. His passion for marine mammals and protecting their habitat is infectious. The arguments against pollution and overfishing that are ruining this precious environment are overwhelming. I hope that through the work of Earthwatch and their partner organisations the dolphins will survive here in the Amvrakikos Gulf and elsewhere, but that depends on real action to reverse current unsustainable levels of commercial fishing which have, for example, decimated the nearby dolphin population at Kalamos by robbing them of their food.

I don’t want to show the photographs of this amazing trip to my children when they’re older and say ‘Did you know that back in the olden days there used to be dolphins in the Mediterrenean.’

Andrea

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Andrea Catherwood is a British broadcaster and journalist writing a travel article for the Independent on Sunday newspaper.

The new field station of Tethys in Greece

One more "message from the field" from another part of the Mediterranean...

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After ten days of hard work we are seeing the light at the end of the tunnel - the new field station in Galaxidi, on the Gulf of Corinth, is almost ready. We are still working in the staff headquarters and the patios, but the space for volunteers has come out quite nice.

In the photos posted here you can see how it was at our arrival. Photos of how it is now can be found at:

photo_idpc_base.htm

We also posted some new photos of the area:

photo_idpc_area.htm

photo_idpc_life.htm

We managed to get cable connection and set up our private mooring facilities.

So far so good :-)

Giovanni, Silvia and Joan

An unexpected encounter: Mediterranean spearfish near Kalamos

(click on the photo to enlarge it)

The first week of July ended with a mysterious encounter. While navigating on transect we spotted something in the distance. At first it appeared to be waves, possibly even produced by a boat. Nonetheless, we decided to check it out.

Arriving at the position a large school of small fish began to jump synchronously, as if they were a single entity. Soon afterwards, we observed a large fin behind the school. A shark? Maybe... but with the binoculars we could see a peculiar pattern of light and dark blue stripes on the body of the animal.

After seeing a second posterior fin, we moved towards the idea of a swordfish Xiphias gladius - a relatively common encounter in the area. But then, we were wrong again.

Once at home, the digital photographs showed us that the predator was most likely a rather rare and magnificent Mediterranean spearfish Tetrapturus belone preying on a school of garpike Belone belone !

Shiva, Annalise and Silvia

Why we did not try to "save" the newborn dolphin

I wasn't on board when Joan and Elisa found the dying newborn, but I support their choice of documenting the event without trying to intervene.

I'm quite sure that they would have done their best to help the baby, should there be any space for meaningful action. But I agree with them that there wasn't any.

Below, I try to explain why.

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The fate of the baby dolphin was rather unpredictable. While he obviously had problems, these were of unknown origin and they could have been of temporary nature. We did not know whether the newborn could recover and what was going to happen next. Only towards the end of the observation it became apparent that he was going to die.

Capturing a dolphin in deep open waters cannot be expected to be easy, also considering that adult dolphins were consistently preventing the baby from approaching the resarchers' boat too closely. The likely reaction by the newborn to approaching human swimmers under those circumstances could be avoidance and increased distress.

The researchers on boat had no veterinary experience and carried no medical equipment. The best they could do (provided that they managed to capture the bay dolphin) was keeping him at the surface. This, however, was expected to result in additional stress and overheating, thus increasing rather than decreasing the risk of mortality. Wild dolphins have been reported to die of stress when handled and the risk may be particularly high if the handled animal is already distressed or ill.

Attempts to capture the newborn may have elicited aggressive behaviours by its presumed mother and/or by other adult dolphins, exposing humans to unknown but potentially significant risks, particularly in deep and murky waters. The presence of swimmers was also likely to disrupt the behaviour of the whole group, possibly jeopardizing the repeated and obvious attempts by other dolphins to assist the newborn. This, again, was thought to increase rather than decrease the risk of a potentially fatal outcome.

Giovanni Bearzi
President, Tethys Research Institute

Agony and death of a newborn bottlenose dolphin in the Amvrakikos Gulf (1)

It’s the 3rd of July and we have been scanning the sea surface on the eastern Amvrakikos Gulf for over an hour. Towards the end the second navigation transect, at 10:10 AM, the familiar spark of the sun reflected on a dolphin’s dorsal fin, far away, tells us where the animals are. Up to now everything seems routine.

But as soon as we approach the dolphins we notice a newborn calf accompanied by two adults surfacing close to him. What initially feels me up with joy and optimism for the welfare of the dolphins inhabiting this wonderful place – a newborn is always good news – is soon replaced by a sad feeling as I realize that this tiny and cute creature is showing clear signs of distress.

His swimming is awkward and his panicking little eyes are wide open, seemingly calling for help. Two adult dolphins are frantically trying to help him on his struggle to stay afloat. Some other dolphins occasionally approach and seem to share a sense of anguish.

The agony of the baby goes on for 45 minutes and at 10.58 he freezes and sinks, disappearing in the green murky waters of the Gulf. We stay with the rest of the group for half an hour, but the newborn has disappeared. At 11:21 we decide to stop the sighting and head back to the field station.

I feel privileged for having witnessed a unique and touching event, but it hurts. It really hurts.

Joan Gonzalvo

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Note: The event described here took place exactly one year after a similar one occurred in the Amvrakikos Gulf on the 3rd and 4th of July, 2007. On those days a bottlenose dolphin mother was observed mourning her dead newborn for several hours.

Out of the blue

It’s 7:15 in the morning and we are crossing the channel between the island of Kalamos and the mainland. With the colorful sunrise never failing to amaze us with its beauty, we take the volunteers to the bus station at Mytikas. It has been an incredible week of sightings and after the volunteers leave for Athens, we meet with our friend Adonis for a Greek coffee near the sea.

We are all sitting in the cafeteria drinking and chatting a mix of English, Italian, Greek and Spanish when suddenly Marina spots a dorsal fin, right in front of us. Bottlenose dolphins in the Mytikas channel! Wow! Go or not go? It is our rest time before a hard day working on boat reparations. But we see a calf in the group and we decide to take the boat and try to identify the mother.

The sea is perfect and in five minutes we approach the group. We don’t have any research equipment on board but we immediately realize that LARA has come back. The calf in the group is her new baby!

LARA is one of the most resident bottlenose dolphins and she has been seen in the waters of Kalamos since 1994. She gave birth to three babies during this time. We are happy to see that her fourth calf was born, after the bad experience with her latest offspring, ZOI.

ZOI was born in the summer of 2004 but its rostrum got entangled in fishing gear and this caused major lesions as the calf grew up. ZOI did not survive to adult age.

Today’s encounter with LARA and her new baby is good news. Life has managed to surface again out of the blue waters of Kalamos.

Marina Costa, Shiva Javdan, Marcel Clusa