The king of sushi

A nice 13min documentary by CBS News on tuna fishing and fattening in the Mediterranean.

The King Of Sushi - Growing Demand For Sushi Is Having A Big Impact On The Bluefin Population

http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2008/01/11/60minutes/main3700644.shtml

Discards, discards and discards

A UK trawler filmed throwing five tonnes of fish overboard has caused international outrage.

Watch the video and read article by John Vidal / Guardian at:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2008/aug/13/fishing.endangeredspecies

Kalamos, July, 31st - August, 6th

I would like to thank all the people who made “Premio di Laurea Rossana Majorca” possible, thanks to which I could participate to this wonderful experience with Tethys. In few days I saw bottlenose dolphins doing acrobatic jumps out of the water and coming to have a look at our boat, then a big group of common dolphins moving fast to the coast and then rest for a while… and they were so close to us... I had never seen dolphins in the wild so close before! It was fantastic! We saw also several newborns trying to swim as adults, and jumping as well, they were really cute! It was very exciting helping the researchers to collect data during the sighting, everybody tried to make its best, I took also some underwater videos from the boat and I hope they could be useful for the dolphins identification! I had really good time during this week, the place where we stayed was awesome, the sea here is fantastic, the weather was fine and the group was really amazing!! ;-) I thanks a lot Annalise, Susie and Silvia of Tethys that are carrying on the project with extreme passion and they were professional as well as very nice with all of us! I suggest to everybody who loves the sea and its creatures to try this experience!

Jessika, Italy

---

Questo posto è indescrivibile, il panorama è fantastico, l’acqua è cristallina ma soprattutto... in cinque giorni abbiamo sempre visto i delfini, siamo stati il gruppo più fortunato di questa estate... ‘the luckiest girls’. Già dal primo giorno siamo riuscite a fare due avvistamenti: qui nel canale tra Episkopi e Mytikas, e poi ad Amvrakikos, quindi, nonostante la sveglia all’alba, ne è valsa veramente la pena! Dopo tre giorni di avvistamenti di tursiopi, un gruppo di una ventina di delfini comuni ci ha regalato grandi emozioni! Vi ringraziamo di averci dato l’opportunità di fare questa esperienza, per averci insegnato un po’ di inglese e i nomi di tutti i delfini avvistati. Non dimentichero’ mai la mitica ‘jelly fish’ e la prima volta abbiamo visto un pesce volante! Davvero tutto ‘very exciting’!

Ilaria and Arianna, Italy

---

This conservation holiday was truly an incredible experience. Observing wild dolphins in their natural environment was amazing – so much better than I could have ever imagined. Not only was I able to observe the dolphins’ behaviour, but also, thanks to the Tethys’ researchers, I was able to understand what it might mean too. It was a great privilege to be allowed to help Tethys with their research. Collecting data enabled me to learn so much about dolphins, and only increased my admiration for these beautiful and intelligent creatures. My group was particularly lucky, because we got to see common dolphins as well as bottlenose dolphins. I saw first-hand bottlenose dolphins glide effortlessly beside our boat only to then leap spectacularly in the air. And I got to see a group of common dolphins socialise with each other and race through the water. However, it was not just watching the dolphins that made this trip unforgettable. There was also the added bonus of seeing other marine life too. I got to see massive tuna jumping into the air, flying fish skim the surface of the water, and big jellyfish float gracefully passed our boat. What topped off the whole experience for me was the fact that I got to see quite a few Greek islands. We were able to stop off for a quick break on these islands. The island on which we actually stayed is particularly stunning – a real undiscovered place of great beauty. What’s more it is great for snorkelling, and has some really scenic beaches. I would recommend this holiday to everyone, and would just like to take the opportunity to thank the Tethys’ researchers, Annalise, Susie and Silvia for teaching me so much and making this trip so special.

Rita, U.K./Italy

Tethys meets MOm

During a pleasant meeting held on the Greek island of Patmos - a true paradise on Earth - Giuseppe Notarbartolo di Sciara and Giovanni Bearzi, respectively the Honorary president and the President of Tethys, have recently held an informal two-day meeting with Spyros Kotomatas, the Executive director of MOm/Hellenic Society for the Study and Protection of the Monk Seal.

The meeting confirmed the good relationship between Tethys and MOm and opened the door to future collaboration between these organizations, that have been actively promoting marine conservation for two decades. 

---

Photo: (left to right) Giuseppe Notarbartolo di Sciara, Spyros Kotomatas and Giovanni Bearzi

Advice for students

Mongabay:
Do you have any advice for students hoping to become conservation scientists?

Jay Barlow:
You have to realize that there are more qualified people than there are jobs. You should look into what specializations are in short supply and target your education so that you can fill that gap. Don't expect the job to be fun. There is no more rewarding job, but like any job done well, it requires a lot of work and a lot of preparation, training, and education.

---
From Mongabay.com

Kalamos, 24-30 August

Today is the last full day of our week-long session with Tethys here on the island of Kalamos in the Eastern Ionian Sea. The time has flown. By the same token, we have learned so much and have had so many new experiences that I already feel like a local, too. It is a nice and sleepy enclave here, and I like it like that!

Annalise and Silvia – two Italian researchers and our fearless leaders - run the program like pros. At 6:30am each day, they are up, setting out a simple breakfast of juice, tea, coffee, cereals and toast with Nutella. They put on a little Norah Jones or Jack Johnson around 6:45am and that is our little musical cue to GET OUT OF BED!!! It is a bit tough at first, but slowly you come out of the fog and remember why you are here (Hint: it is NOT just about the dolphins!). By 7:15am they are down at the boat, a motorized inflatable called ‘Megaloceto’ – The big cetacean! And by 7:30am, we are off across the bay, to check out a fish farm on the outskirts of Mytikas before heading out to open sea. To clarify who we are: I am here with Tommy and Lone, a couple from Denmark, and Zsuzsanna – a research assistant of Slovakian heritage who now hails from Hungary. The program can take up to five volunteers at a time, but this week, there are only three of us.

Our job: To help the researchers and staff to spot dolphins and other marine life (fish, sea turtles, birds, etc), observe them, and document them. This data helps scientists to understand not just dolphin behavior, but how these cetaceans figure into the larger landscape – the ecosystem of the Mediterranean and beyond. To do this work, we have had to learn new protocols ranging from using a stop watch and a palmtop to identifying different animals by the shapes and markings on their dorsal fins. Next, we group and match their photos on a computer and input all sorts of other data i.e. their aerial, percussive or stationary behavior, the presence of bird life, fish farms and other boats. It is mostly fascinating, sometimes painstaking but always important work.

Aside from this, there is house work: helping to cook, clean and tend to the boat. Still, there is time for a short swim here, a catnap there…. I do not mind the work; I do not even mind getting up so early. In fact, I have to say, I enjoy the rigors of this experience. I think it is important to remember that we are a team, that we are not here to vacation –and our chores reinforce these notions.

This is not a trip for everyone. It is only for those who love nature, who appreciate the scientific process, who seek to learn, who enjoy long days and hard work, and who believe in giving back. For such people, I highly recommend this incredibly rewarding experience. Though I only got to meet the Tethys’s president, Giovanni Bearzi, and the researcher Joan Gonzalvo, once, and though I still barely know Annalise and Silvia after five days, I know that my experience with Tethys and its mission is only just beginning. I feel inspired to do a lot more, to spread the word and to push for actions that will result in a cleaner, healthier, more sustainable habitat for dolphins, not to mention the rest of us mammals! For everyone else, there is always Mykonos! ;)

Kim, U.S.A.

---

Thank you very much for a wonderful week here on the island of Kalamos in the Ionian Sea. We really appreciate your hard work and dedication to save cetaceans and that you made it possible for us to experience the wonderful nature of common bottlenose dolphins and the short-beaked common dolphins. We need more people like you in this world. We have asked a lot of questions during the week, maybe too many, but nonetheless we feel like we know the world of the two species better than we did before arriving last Sunday. And that is of big importance for both of us.

Spreading the words of dolphins and other species, suffering from overfishing, human influence, and pollution, seems more important now than ever. We will for sure think twice about the consequences of our actions in our daily life in Denmark. We have been fortunate to see dolphins three days in a row, two times around Kalamos and one time in the Amvrakikos Gulf. The team collected data, which we worked with during the week. Seeing the dolphins was of course a lovely experience, but analysing the data was really interesting as well. During the day there was also time for fun, having nice conversations together and learning about other cultures, like Italy, Hungary and New York. We can definitely recommend this project to other people interested in dolphins and hope to be back very soon.

Lone and Tommy, Denmark

Talented young scientists: Jennifer Jacquet

Born and raised in Ohio, a state without oceans, Jennifer spent her childhood pining over manatees in the pages of the WWF magazine for children. As an undergraduate, Jennifer volunteered with the conservation vigilante Sea Shepherd International and, aboard the Sirenian, helped patrol the Galapagos Marine Reserve for illegal shark poaching. She was also an intern for the Florida Marine Research Institute studying those pined-over gentle giants: the manatees (the body of Fred Flintstone, the grace of Fred Astaire).

Jennifer joined the Sea Around Us Project to work on catch reconstructions for small-scale fisheries in the developing world (e.g. seafood security) and some aspects of the seafood market in the developed world (e.g. seafood eco-marketing). She also runs the Shifting Baselines weblog.


The portrait above and a list of publications by Jennifer Jacquet can be found in the UBC Fisheries Centre web site.

I particularly like Jennifer's most recent work, an impressively documented overview of the marine fisheries crisis with a wink at The Talking Heads:
Jacquet, J. In press. Silent Water: A Brief Examination of the Marine Fisheries Crisis. Environment, Development, and Sustainability.

Another of her interesting articles questions eco-labelling and its presumed advantages - definitely worth reading:
Jacquet, J. L. and D. Pauly. 2007. The rise of consumer awareness campaigns in an era of collapsing fisheries. Marine Policy 31: 308-313.

Giovanni Bearzi

Playing the "numbers game"

Playing the "numbers game" is not good enough when it comes to identifying what species are at risk from extinction, says Nicolas Entrup from WDCS.

He argues that we need to re-evaluate how we decide what creatures need our help to survive.

---
Read the whole article and contribute your comments on BBC News online.

How to write consistently boring scientific literature

Although scientists typically insist that their research is very exciting and adventurous when they talk to laymen and prospective students, the allure of this enthusiasm is too often lost in the predictable, stilted structure and language of their scientific publications....
Read on

---
Sand-Jensen, K. 2007. How to write consistently boring scientific literature. Oikos 116(5):723-727.

Kalamos, 17-23 August

First of all, I have to thank you for your kindness and your smile even at 6:30AM, and your very ‘perfect’ social behaviour, the way you teach us your scientific protocol, which is very scary and well done. I shall remember it. You communicate perfectly not only your enthusiasm for dolphins but make us feel our responsibility as human beings. This experience was totally new and very complete, a new way to discover Greece not from the ‘sacred places’ and temples, like Delphi or Epidaure, but from an inflatable boat on the surface of the sea.

Brigitte, France

---

I want to tell you a beautiful story of a lucky boy. This lucky boy is me, Benjamin. I spent one week with seven girls, nice isn't it? These girls cooked very well and were very nice! That’s why you have to help them (Annalise and Silvia), you will spend one week with the sun, cute cats, a nice home and a beautiful sea. Oh!! I almost forget, with dolphins too!!! So now I’m going back home with a lot of things in my head about dolphins and women! Thanks for this adventure, it was really nice and I’m very happy to have seen so many dolphins.

Benjamin, France

---

I’d like to thank the Tethys crew. I spent a lovely week in a paradise without tourists, but with really cute cats. Also seeing dolphins so close to me was an experience I won’t forget. You know what they are able to do, but when it happens 5 meters from you it’s completely different. Even if you have to wake up at 6 o’clock in the morning and wait for the first dolphin it’s nothing compared to how you feel when you leave Kalamos. But it’s not only about watching dolphins, it’s also about their problems and eventually you realise how dolphins are in a bad situation. This lets you think about these wonderful animals and their future.

Alice, France (16 years old)

---

Mum of the two children above... I'm so happy about my week! A dream came true and it opened my mind towards a new personal project in the years to come... so thanks a lot Annalise, Silvia and Kelsea. Your knowledge is very interesting and you have also so many human qualities!

Catherine, France

---
Drawing by Giovanni Bearzi

And we are adrift

With a turn of key the engine cuts out and we are adrift. After hours with the steady rumble of the trusty Selva 100, we all welcome the quiet. Finally the glassy complexion of the sea is matched by the erie silence in the air. The only disturbance now is the fierce sun beating down on our shoulders.

A few minutes pass and we glance around, bodies still tense from hours of survey followed by concentration on the various tasks of data collection. Just as our anticipation peaks, it comes; the powerful jet of air signaling the exhale of a dolphin nearby. Within seconds several more full exhalations breach the quiet and though unaware we each mimic the action. A long deep exhale allowing our tension to fade. Simultaneously smiles break across our faces as easily as the dolphins broached the quiet water.

Moments of peace like these were welcomed during the six weeks I spent with the Ionian Dolphin Project in Episkopi. The days were busy, filled with the training of new volunteers from various European countries who would then head to the sea with us every morning to assist with research. The team here also found time to inform the volunteers of the tough situation in the area surrounding Kalamos Island. It is a grim life for these charismatic creatures and the beautiful environment they inhabit.

But for me, to see such a dedicated people working for change brings admiration and the desire to help. To know that this team of researchers, little by little, are helping to spread this knowledge throughout the world brings hope for the future. Thank you to all the people who made this such a unique and amazing experience!!

Kelsea Peterman

---
Photo: Kelsea at the IDP field station, showing the dorsal fins used for training purposes (to learn how to record dolphin surfacing intervals).

Dolphins of Greece, 10-19 August

Five female teachers all lucky enough to gain a place on a trip of a lifetime. May I just say what a great time we all had researching dolphins here in Vonitsa.

Susie was great, sweet, pretty and patient, Joan has wit, humour, sarcasm and very cheeky/sexy smile (and he knows it!). On a more serious side, he has focus and drive, always wanting us to get the most out of the experience. Giovanni, polite, quiet and obviously the brain behind the whole thing... and then we mustn’t forget Posi the dog who just brings the whole big happy family together!

The hospitality was excellent, the food delicious, the company great, the dolphins incredible and the overall experience is one not to be forgotten.

I think I can speak for us all, in that we have learnt a lot, in a beautiful place and from three people who were all great to be around (7am in the morning wasn’t necessarily the best time), but still, there was never a moment when we weren’t made to feel at home and welcomed...

The work being done is essential and it is great to meet people who are so passionate about what they do. I just wish that everyone could see what we are doing to our land and seas and try to do their own bit to help... admiration to you all.

Kiko, Kirsty, Ruth, Lesley and Rachel (U.K.)

Kalamos, 10-16 August

Many thanks to the nice and dynamic team of Episkopi. We got a good mix of education, active participation to the project and sports. Good food (and wine)… And happiness! It is sad to see that the trend for conservation is not good. This is not a surprise though. It is of course your involvement and passion that could make the difference locally. But this is also our commitment to spread your message back home among family, friends and colleagues. We shall overcome from Alaska, Belgium, France, Italy, Greece if we decide to act together positively…

Eric, France

Photo: the IDP team in question (Annalise, Kelsea and Silvia)

How to Photograph Dolphins in the Wild

"I am very fortunate that my job allows me to spend time filming and photographing the lives of whales and dolphins (...) I thought I would share some tips about photographing dolphins in the wild.

This can be useful to people going whale or dolphin watching. It may also help researchers take better images through their photo-identification work."

-- Chris Johnson

Photo: Chris Johnson / earthOCEAN

---

Learn from Chris how to take better photos of dolphins and whales at sea:

How to Photograph Dolphins in the Wild

---

View some of the best photos taken by Tethys personnel during Mediterranean research campaigns (Flash Video with music):

Tethys Photo Show

Dolphins of Greece, 1-9 August

Thank you to Fund For Teachers who paid for our expedition, Earthwatch Institute who connected us with the project and Tethys Research Institute for establishing the research. Thank you to Giovanni, Joan and Suzanna for welcoming us into your home and teaching us so much about teamwork, scientific method and conservation. I can’t wait to teach what I have learned to my students and colleagues. We will keep in touch and share any materials we create (curriculum, videos, student-created products and presentations) as a result of this experience.

On a personal level, I think you are very special people and I feel very fortunate to have met you. I will never forgot you and you will always hold a special place in my heart.

With sincere appreciation,

Amy, USA (Maine)

---

I think it is fair to say that we have been a most compatible group of volunteers. It has made for not only the most awe inspiring encounter of a wild species of animal but also contributed to a fun, relaxing, rigorous, demanding at times, and hugely entertaining experience. We have shared the most memorable adventure. From dolphin sightings, and feeling a part of a larger piece of the universe, to the conversations about culture, science, conservation, global stewardship, preserving life as we know it, social attitudes, and just life.

I believe that all people should travel abroad because it makes people more humble, less self important, and more compassionate for others, and now after this experience with this very passionate, knowledgeable, team of cetacean scientists I also believe that people should have the experience of observing a wild species because it allows one to see firsthand the connectedness of all life on this planet. What we do to one species will have a ripple effect on others. We cannot play with this delicate balance of nature!

With much gratitude and fondness,

Marcia, USA (Maine)

---

I have experienced and seen so much in my life that I never thought that anything or anyone could surpass it. Oh how very wrong I was.

My first day in Greece (Vonitsa) was like falling in love all over again. The culture, food and the people’s attitude towards life was an eye opener for me. Being the only Asian, I felt “special”. Joan and his “little grasshopper” (Suzana aka “what are u doing Suzie”) linked up with us and we were guided to Palace Tethys. From day 1 the group “clicked”.

The 2nd day we went out to sea and from that day onwards everything exploded. We saw the record number of dolphins sighted this year and it just improved day in day out. Throughout the expedition we had so many brilliant sightings of dolphins, sea turtles and ate delicious food (like mama makes it back home). We laughed, shared stories about our country and culture, we shared beer, we shared task, we protected each other the way a female dolphin would protect her calf. We were ONE.

From the bottom of my heart I thank the King of the Palace, Giovanni, though injured, never failed to join us for discussions and made himself readily available when we needed him. General Joan, was different. We could not get rid of him. His regimental orders (humorous thou) made me feel at home and it helped me get through being away from my daughter. His constant battle plans (transect) kept me on my toe. His daily lectures opened up a new and priceless chapter in my life. Private Suzie was simply adorable. Whatever I let slip from my hands, she caught it.

My hats off to Giovanni, Joan and Suzie. I have learnt so much these 9 days and I say THANK YOU!!! Your passion towards the conservation of life is beyond words, kudos my friends. To my new found American friends - Marcia, Amy, Sarah and Saagar, remember me as the funny one and not the one that woke you up 9 days in a row. LOVE U GUYS!!!

Jesse, Singapore

---

The beauty about words is that they give us the ability to communicate an experience to our friends and family so they can share the good times that we have. However, words cannot do justice to the experience that I had here in Vonitsa; it was beyond anything that I could have ever imagined.

These past nine days were more than I could have ever hoped for. From the start to the end, I loved every second of my experience with not only the dolphins, which were beyond spectacular, but also with the staff. I want to go up to Joan, Dr. Bearzi, and Suzanna (little Suzi) and give them all a big hug thanking them for giving me an experience of a lifetime. My heart goes out to you guys for your passion, your drive, and, most importantly, your love for the dolphins. You guys have shown me the value of preserving this amazing cetaceans, and for that, words cannot express how thankful I am.

I want to thank my friends, Marcia, Jesse, Amy, and Sarah. I have been traveling all my life and been part of many groups, but I have to say that you guys are the best group I have ever had, no exaggeration. I have never been with a group that shared so much enthusiasm towards learning not only about the fieldwork that goes in cetacean preservation, but also about the value and caring towards Mother Nature. Thanks for a great nine days that we spent together.

Apart from the great sightings we had at sea, the amazing food that we ate, and even that glorious trip to Lefkada, I cannot think of anything else that could have made the time more amazing. Thank you all for a glorious experience. I wish you nothing but the best!

Saagar, USA (Massachusetts)

---

I signed up for this expedition with very little expectations. I wanted to travel to a different country, see some dolphins and go on an adventure. I thought my adventure began and ended in Vonitsa, Greece, but I was wrong. My adventure is just beginning. I have learned so much about dophins, sea life, the world and mysef the past nine days and I can’t wait to share everything with my family, friends and students. I am going home with a bigger heart and I owe it all to Amy, Saagar, Marcia, Jesse, Joan, Suzie, Giovanni and of course the dolphins. You made me feel like I was at home even though I was thousands of miles away from Boston. From the bottom of my heart, thank you!

Sarah, USA (Massachusetts)

Kalamos, 3-9 August

WOOOOOOOOO!!! We have had an amazing time!!! Everything surpassed our extremely high expectations and we are leaving with so much more than a volunteer research expedition. We had an eclectic mix of people in our team as well as superb researchers/skippers... Silvia, Annalise and Kelsea!

We immediately felt at home in this beautiful house and breathtaking environment with small remote Greek villages and gorgeous lush beaches… we felt rather spoilt! We learnt languages from Italian, Portuguese, German.. and perhaps a little Greek... oh and we learnt to conduct dolphin research as well :p

On a serious note this trip has been nothing short of perfection, there is nothing any of us would change and we would have gladly spent more time here… hereon after all trips will have gigantic shoes to fill – the bar has been raised! If you are reading this now and wondering whether this project is the right one for you all we can advise is: BOOK NOW!!! You will not regret it… All our love from the best IDP team ever:

Pria (U.K.), Birgit (Germany), Margarida (Portugal), Max (Italy), Francisco (Portugal)

---
Drawing by Pria, portraying the volunteers and the research team during a sighting (!)

Our Friends the Dolphins in Turkish

Our Friends the Dolphins now also available in Turkish !

This new version was translated courtesy of Fethi Bengil, Zeynep Derya Yıldırım, Harun Güçlüsoy – SAD.

Enduring goal of the author, Giovanni Bearzi, is to translate his booklet in more languages, so that this little educational tool can be enjoyed by as many kids as possible.

The booklet is now available in ten languages: Arabic, English, French, German, Greek, Italian, Portuguese, Slovene, Spanish and Turkish.

Everything has been done on a volunteer basis (drawings, text, design, translation, web management etc.)

---
To see the new Turkish version: Our Friends the Dolphins

Oceana and Tethys meet in Piraeus

On July 31st, 2008, Tethys President Giovanni Bearzi was invited on board Oceana’s ship MarViva Med in the port of Piraeus, Greece.

Giovanni was welcomed by Xavier Pastor, Executive director of Oceana Europe and coordinator of the MarViva Med 2008 expedition, together with Oceana’s marine scientists María José Cornax and Patricia Lastra.

During a very pleasant meeting the group discussed issues such as illegal driftnetting, the impact of overfishing on marine ecosystems, and the most effective strategies of addressing these problems and communicating them to the general public and the institutions.

The meeting ended with a strong sense of unity and friendship. Oceana and Tethys literally were embarqued ‘on the same ship’, sharing the same committment, passion and sense of urgency in the often-frustrating struggle to prevent the devastation of marine ecosystems.

(Photo by Oceana)

A day in the life

(written upon request for the Earthwatch Institute web site)

From March 2006 I settled in Greece where I am in charge of year-round research in the Amvrakikos Gulf. Together with Giovanni Bearzi, I lead the ‘Dolphins of Greece’ project supported by the Earthwatch Institute.

Before moving here, I had been working intermittently with the Tethys Research Institute in Greece since 1999. From the very beginning, I fell in love with the island of Kalamos, its surroundings and the kindness of local people. In those crystal-clear waters I made my first dolphin sighting.

When Tethys offered me the opportunity of taking care of a new project in the Amvrakikos Gulf and settle in the beautiful village of Vonitsa, it just felt like the right thing to do. Obviously, it wasn’t easy to leave behind family, friends and my hometown (the gorgeous Barcelona), but I guess it was part of the challenge. After over two years of living in Greece the decision has proven to be good.

The semi-closed Amvrakikos Gulf has a high density of bottlenose dolphins and its calm waters make it an ideal place to the study these animals. However, the Gulf is becoming increasingly eutrophic and polluted as a result of human pressure. Management priority should be given to curtailing eutrophication and pollution and incrasing water exchange with the open Sea - that has been reduced by port construction and other infrastructure.

My life in Vonitsa changes a lot depending on whether we have volunteers participating in our field courses or not. As dolphin research must be conducted year-round with consistent methods, my main task while volunteers are at the field base is to ensure that field work and data collection are done properly. I must keep up with their expectations and do my best to convey a conservation message and involve them in everything we do. To accomplish this task, the help of one or two research assistants is crucial. My assistants devote much time to looking after the volunteers’ needs and they supervise their work at the field base, after 4-5 hours of intensive work at sea.

While the volunteers are here, one of the things I enjoy the most are our conversations over dinner. We normally talk about the day’s events. That dolphin bow-riding who stared at us while gracefully gliding below our boat. The feeding frenzy of a flock of seagulls taking advantage of dolphins schooling fish to the surface. A couple of male loggerhead sea turtles ‘wrestling’ a few meters away from us... Living with people with different backgrounds, sharing their thoughts, emotions and worries towards the future of our planet is mostly a pleasant experience.

When I am alone or with research assistants (usually marine biology students) we carry on with our survey effort and data collection, but I can afford to devote more time to other aspects of the project. This includes organising educational and public awareness activities at local schools or working with local fishermen to investigate interactions between dolphins and fisheries.

In the winter, one of the things I enjoy the most is walking early in the morning along the seaside, in the good company of my dog Posi, looking at the mountains on the opposite side of the Gulf with their hills covered by snow and the flocks of sea birds flying around the small wooden boats of local fishermen while they are hauling their nets. And, of course, I enjoy being at sea in the company of dolphins. It is then that being here makes perfect sense.

Joan Gonzalvo

Kalamos, un paradiso in pericolo

Una volta approdati a Kalamos si entra nella Grecia che tutti noi abbiamo in mente. La Grecia delle isole selvagge, dell'acqua cristallina, del silenzio rotto solo dal canto delle cicale.

Alla base si respira un'atmosfera magica, la casa è rustica e al tempo stesso accogliente e alla sera si mangia in giardino, sotto un fantastico cielo stellato, accompagnati dalle vocalizzazioni dell'assiolo.

Dopo un intero anno come assistente di campo per lo Ionian Dolphin Project di Amvrakikos, ho voluto partecipare al progetto di Kalamos per capire meglio le problematiche legate a questo luogo incantevole, un tempo sede di incontri regolari di delfini comuni, tursiopi, tonni, pesci spada e foche monache, oggi oggetto di una pesca intensa e mal regolamentata, che sta mettendo a rischio l'intero ecosistema.

Devo dire di essere stata molto fortunata perchè alla mia prima uscita in mare, dopo non molte ore di navigazione, abbiamo avvistato due delfini comuni, una madre col piccolo! Che emozione, il primo delfino comune della mia vita! Il mare era piuttosto mosso, perciò siamo riusciti a seguirli solo per una mezz'ora, ma negli occhi di tutti si vedeva la gioia e la concentrazione degne di un evento ormai raro e preziosissimo.

La mia seconda uscita invece è stata deliziata da un gruppo di cinque tursiopi: Spiti, una vecchia conoscenza del luogo, assieme a quattro giovani, molto attivi e giocosi. Siamo rimasti con loro a lungo, ma nessuno a bordo del gommone,accennava a un minimo di stanchezza. La generale difficoltà nel trovare i delfini si accompagna infatti a un grande entusiasmo nel momento in cui si avvistano e sono sicura che anche i volontari percepiscano l'importanza che ogni avvistamento riveste.

Dai racconti dei colleghi penso a come deve essere stata Kalamos solo quindici anni fa. Un paradiso ancora incontaminato. Immagino la frustrazione di chi segue questo progetto dal suo inizio e che, nonostante l'impegno e il duro lavoro, ha dovuto assistere al progressivo degrado ambientale e alla scomparsa di molte forme di vita. E' un processo drammatico che va fermato prima che sia troppo tardi e il contributo di ognuno di noi può essere determinante.

Ringrazio tutti i componenti del delizioso team che mi ha accompagnata in questa esperienza, in particolare Silvia e Annalise, le due responsabili di campo che mi hanno accolta e coinvolta da subito in ogni aspetto del lavoro, che stanno conducendo con grande entusiasmo e professionalità.

Elisa Malevolti

Bringing the dolphins of Greece to Los Angeles students

On July, 17th, Earthwatch volunteer Larissa Karan and I held a video conference with a group of school children from Virgil Middle School in Los Angeles, California.

Larissa teaches science to students with special needs. She does that in the most densely populated area of Los Angeles. As an educator, Larissa wanted to share with her students her experience with Tethys researchers studying bottlenose dolphins in the Amvrakikos Gulf.

Larissa received an expedition scholarship from Earthwatch to participate in the Dolphins of Greece expedition, with the aim of passing on to students her field experience. Her motivation, enthusiasm and commitment to teaching motivated me to participate in a video conference with kids from her school. It was a unique opportunity for students to ask questions about dolphins, research and marine conservation.

Answering the questions posed by the kids and seeing Larissa in action for about an hour was a touching experience. If you are curious about the kids’ questions and delivered answers, you may want to check Larissa’s web page.

Joan Gonzalvo

Kalamos 19-26 July

Osservare i delfini? In mare? In Grecia? Collaborare con un gruppo di ricercatori?

Confesso tutto il mio scetticismo quando la mia compagna mi fece questa proposta! “Ma io non sono uno studioso… La vita nel mare mi appassiona e mi affascina, ma… Che razza di aiuto posso dare a chi studia i delfini del Mediterraneo?”

Ed eccomi qui, qualche mese dopo, con la mia valigia troppo grande per questo luogo idilliaco che è l’isola di Kalamos. Serve veramente poco in questo ambiente informale, dove tutti (nella bellissima casetta di Episkopi) facciamo le stesse cose, condividiamo momenti di lavoro e di svago.

I delfini, certo, quelli li ho incontrati davvero! Un giorno ho trascorso ore a seguire le loro bizze dal gommone che, sapientemente condotto dalle giovani ricercatrici di Tethys, andava loro dietro senza mai interferire con la loro attività. Anzi, erano loro, i delfini, ad avvicinarsi a noi incuriositi, sbalordendoci con i loro salti e le loro evoluzioni!

Un grazie speciale a Silvia, Annalise, Elisa e Kelsea per la loro disponibilità, affabilità e simpatia, che hanno permesso a un profano quale io sono, di vivere questa indimenticabile esperienza!! Un saluto anche ai miei compagni/e di avventura: Marianna, Aliki, Noemi e al giovanissimo Paolo! Un abbraccio.

Germano, Italy

---

La casa bianca con le ante blu, il mare e il canto delle cicale, le piroette dei delfini e l’entusiasmo di tutti… come si può lasciare tutto questo?

Ma gli amici restano e le esperienze di questa settimana sono parte di me. Se prima raccoglievo i sacchetti abbandonati sulla spiaggia per senso del dovere, ora farò la stessa cosa con l’amore ed il rispetto che sento per i nostri amici marini.

Conoscere per amare e rispettare, una vacanza ricca di entusiasmo, arricchimento e crescita. Grazie Silvia e Annalise. Grazie Elisa, Kelsea, Marianna, Aliki, Paolo e Germano.

A presto.

Noemi, Italy

---

Quella della Tethys, per mio conto, è un’esperienza fantastica e anche molto educativa.

Si parte la mattina presto verso le 7.30 in gommone, alla ricerca dei delfini. Nel caso si trovassero, inizia la parte più divertente e bisogna lavorare con l’attrezzatura da ricerca. Alle 11.00 ci si ferma per bere qualche cosa e dopo mezz’ora si riparte. Alle 14.00 si rincasa e si mangia qualche cosa. Dopo il pranzo c’è il tempo libero fino alle 18.00 e in quattro ore si può fare il bagno, dormire, leggere, rilassarsi, ecc. Alle 18.00 si guarda un video e dopo si lavora sulla foto-identificazione, che consiste nell’identificare i delfini attraverso le cicatrici e le tacche che hanno sulla pinna. Finito tutto ciò, si cucina e si mangia.

Questo è a grandi linee ciò che si fa. Però è difficile spiegare la bellezza di vedere uno o più delfini saltare e fare acrobazie, quindi il mio consiglio è di venire a provarlo di persona, e vi posso assicurare che passerete un’ottima vacanza!

Paolo (13 anni), Italy

---

First and foremost, I think that my fellow colleagues and I were very lucky to see dolphins since the external influences have become a serious threat to all maritime species in the waters of Kalamos. When I saw the two common dolphins, Nigel and Nigel-son4, I felt that something got stuck in my throat – I was not enlightened, but I wanted to cry because of the gratitude I felt that these fascinating creatures are still alive and living in this place.

How can it be that something so wonderful, and the world it is living in is continuously exploited and destroyed? That is not the only question I asked myself during my stay in Kalamos.

To be with like-minded people who do care and do something about the problem made me feel better, but nevertheless I have doubts about the future of the dolphin population of Kalamos.
Thanks to Tethys, there are substantial research results at hand, which prove the constant decline of common dolphins in this region. If the Greek Government does not see the potential of this area, considering both sustainable fishing methods and environmentally friendly tourism, one of the last natural treasures of Greece will disappear.

However, I want to thank everyone for the fruitful, cross-cultural and enriching exchange.

Silvia for her patience and her calm and comprehensible attitude towards all kind of problems. Your Greek is great! Annalise for her joy to share her knowledge with us. You are not small at all! You both work so hard and the field station (and Tethys) would be NOTHING without personalities like you! Elisa for her charming smile and her great skills in assisting us during the sighting of the dolphins. Kelsea for her openness, the fish face :0) and her patience with all the Italians! Aliki for your input and great humor and the laughter while freezing on the inflatable. Noemi for her hands and her interest towards everything. Germano for all the help and kindness and the red wine. You two are such a great couple! Paolo – thanks to you I know how it is not to freeze – you will stay in my mind drinking Ice Tea out of a frozen glass on a cold, cloudy and rainy day. I won't forget you!

Marianna, Switzerland

Monk seal sighting near Meganisi, Greece

Amazing! It was our first day of surveying for the Ionian Dolphin Project around the island of Kalamos (Greece). We were looking for dolphins for about two hours, when we had a great sighting along the coast of Meganisi island... Something rounded and black popped out of the water, very close to a pebbled beach. It disappeared in the water... and came out again.

Binoculars in hands our biologist onboard shouted out: “It’s a MONK SEAL!” It was the first time I had seen one in the wild. I was so happy: finally I could see one of these disappearing marine mammals.

The monk seal Monachus monachus was slowly swimming along the coast to reach the next small bay. It was about two meters long. It was five minutes of unbelievable sighting for a biologist. Some years ago I’ve been working on public awareness at the National Marine Park of Sporades (Aegean Sea, Greece) dispersing leaflets about the biology and conservation of monk seals. They struggle to survive in very few places in the Mediterranean Sea, mostly around remote and quiet islands with pebbled beaches hidden in caves. How lucky we were to get to see one of them! It was unforgettable.

Aliki Hadjidakis, Switzerland/Greece

Kalamos, 13-18 July

A week of dolphins, fun and good company. Thank you Tethys for a warm welcome and the opportunity to share an insight into the invaluable work you do. Especially a big thank you to the dolphins who introduced themselves on our first day. Keep up the good work and hopefully one day the dolphins will return to Greece in the numbers they once were.

Janice, England

---

A great experience, the Tethys crew are informative and welcoming and work hard to make your stay enjoyable, safe and involved in the different aspects of research and conservation. Location and accommodation splendid. Suggestion tip: show the “EarthOcean” video on the project on the first night as this gives an excellent introduction to what Tethys is achieving within this field of research.

Suzanne, Ireland

---

Scrutare la superficie del mare argentato quando il sole ancora rimane appoggiato sulle montagne e tendere tutta la propria attenzione verso un luccichio o un’ombra sospetta tra le onde, questo è ciò che ho amato di più in questi sei giorni. E’ stata un’esperienza decisamente interessante sotto ogni punto di vista. Oltre ad avere allungato lo sguardo sul mare greco per avvistare i delfini, ho teso non meno impegnativamente le orecchie per captare più inglese possibile. Ringrazio Tethys, Annalise, Silvia e i volontari per ogni cosa e spero che questa appassionante ricerca continui con lo stesso spirito. Grazie a Spiti, uno dei delfini avvistati, per averci lusingato l’ultimo giorno con una serie di meravigliosi salti e capovolte.

Elena, Italy

Dolphins of Greece in July (2)

It was such a fantastic experience working with the Tethys research team in Vonitsa. Eli, Joan and Gio really made me feel at home here, and I learned so much about these fascinating creatures! I especially am thankful for the opportunity to share this experience with my students in Los Angels through video conferencing with Joan. Eli really worked hard to teach us how to do the identifications, and made the task both interesting and enjoyable. The birthday party allowed our last supper to be a joyous occasion instead of a somber one, and for that I am relieved. This is a week that my students and I will remember forever!

Larissa, USA

---

This was a terrific experience! Joan, Eli and Giovanni were terrific teachers and made me feel comfortable at home even in the smoltering heat. I knew nothing about dolphins before I arrived, but now I leave here with fairly extensive knowledge and can even identify dolphins by their dorsal fins (quite an accomplishment)! Our birthday party made our last night a fun experience, and not so upsetting to be leaving this beautiful place. But most of all, I will miss my dear Posi (the dog) and my good morning kisses from him. I hope to be able to return someday...

Judith, USA

---

An unforgettable experience... We woke every morning to crisp, cool temperatures and excitement about how many dolphins we would see that day. We had four terrific sightings, including a lot of bowriding, percussive and aerial behavior, some foraging, and even a dolphin stretching after a short nap. My most spectacular experience was when we had three dolphins bowriding and could hear their whistling noises. It was truly breathtaking! The scenery is beautiful. The food was fabulous. Eli and Joan did an excellent job teaching us about the work they are doing here. We shared some good laughs and conversation. I am honored to have been a part of this expedition team. I will share my experiences with my friends and family for years to come.

Ashlee, USA

---
Dolphins of Greece

Additional information on bottlenose dolphins in the Amvrakikos Gulf:
Bearzi G., Agazzi S., Bonizzoni S., Costa M., Azzellino A. 2008. Dolphins in a bottle: abundance, residency patterns and conservation of bottlenose dolphins Tursiops truncatus in the semi-closed eutrophic Amvrakikos Gulf, Greece. Aquatic Conservation: Marine and Freshwater Ecosystems 18(2):130-146. (502 Kb)

Dolphins of Greece in July (1)

Before I left for my Earthwatch expedition, I received a farewell email from a friend saying that she hoped the Dolphins of Greece “far exceeded my expectations”. What I witnessed the first day out at sea was far beyond anything I could have ever imagined. The dolphins were surrounding us as if to welcome us. They put on a beautiful performance!

I cried that day on the boat, and on all of our other sightings. Each time being struck by their magnificence. Seeing them in their natural environment can not compare to seeing them in an aquarium or show. In the Gulf, it is as if you are spying on them in their home. I so appreciate their hospitality!

Having the opportunity to work with and observe the research team was a unique one in many ways. Their passion and endless dedication to the animals is admirable and not often seen in many other work places. Despite the fact that they have been observing dolphins for many years, there is no mistaking the joy that overcomes them when a dolphin is “in sight”. One might think that they are seeing them for the very first time, just as the volunteers are.

Outside of the boat, their commitment to the project continues. The amount of time and energy it takes to input and analyze the data is incredible and very complex. Even with the assistance of volunteers like me, the project encompasses many factors that require ongoing attention. I am most struck by the struggles Tethys faces with gaining the necessary funding to keep the project going. It saddens me to see such efforts being made for such a worthwhile cause, with so little acknowledgement and support.

As a volunteer, I question how that might be able to change... (hmmm very very big question mark). Perhaps the most unique aspect of the research team was their ability to create a warm and fun loving environment (the food and wine helped a lot!). It was wonderful to have the chance to build relationships and learn a bit about their respective cultures and ways of life.

Tomorrow is my last day on the boat and I already feel a sense of sadness. This expereince has impacted me in a way that will be with me for always. Thanks to the dolphins, the town of Vonista and Joan, Eli and Giovanni for providing me with such an enriching and powerful experience.

Debbie, New Jersey

---
Dolphins of Greece

Early morning fish-farm sighting

Another early morning at the Tethys field base in Kalamos. The sun had not risen long, but Silvia was already walking up the path behind the house towards our 'land observation point'. While the rest of the crew made their way to the boat in preparation for another hot day of surveying, Silvia had spotted 4 bottlenose dolphins in the channel between Mytikas and Kalamos.

Receiving the news via cell phone, we soon sped from Episkopi towards the assumed location, all intently looking around for the early morning visitors. Soon enough, we found the group at the Mytikas fish farm, which is appearing to be a common meeting place.

We started the behavioural sampling routine at 7:30AM! Throughout the 2.5 hours of data uploading, we observed countless social interactions with percussive and aerial displays. As curious as we were towards the group, they returned the intrigue by spyhopping a few times and often surfacing face first before taking a breath.

There were a few instances that caught our interest. One was that the group appeared to be separated into two couples that usually surfaced together. At one point in the sighting, a school of fish about 15m from the fish farm were jumping out the water with the dolphins around. Another peculiar observation was how fearless the dolphins were in the fish farm. Without any precaution, the dolphins were racing, jumping and socializing around the cages. The dolphins appeared to be unaffected by the fish farm boats driving around. Some of the workers seemed to appreciate the presence of the dolphins and watched them every now and then.

Returning back at the base and uploading the wonderful pictures taken by Annalise, we soon realized that the 4 bottlenose were none other than the 4 juveniles that have been spotted numerous times this season. The four were usual found with Spiti, the male with the dorsal fin cut off; but in this case, he appeared to be elsewhere.

Only time will tell what the Mytikas fish farm has in store for us in the future!

Shiva Javdan

One of those days

It’s the 7th of July and we just came back from the sea. This morning we decided to visit the fish and mussel farms in the western side of the Amvrakikos Gulf. Aquaculture is quite widespread in our study area and it is interesting to monitor the growth and development of this local industry. Transcribing the notes taken in the small tape recorder, I review today’s events and my mind gets back to those moments.

On board of our inflatable we visited four fish farms and three mussel farms. Finding bottlenose dolphins near one of these facilities was nothing really new. What was amazing to me, after these years spent regularly surveying the Gulf, was spotting so many sea turtles: by the end of the day we ended up recording a total of 18 encounters with these marine reptiles.

On our last fish farm stop we also saw a school of mullets swimming at the surface, very close to one of the cages, and then a group of six graceful bull rays Pteromylaeus bovinus swimming underneath. I was fascinated by their kite-like silhouette while they were gliding underwater, the body shape softened by the murky waters of the Gulf. Two of these rays looked like they were were rubbing their bellies against a chain anchoring the fish cage.

While all this was going on, two bottlenose dolphins came and started diving around the cages, while another large dolphin group could be seen at a distance, surface feeding in a cloud of seagulls and terns.

This was one of those days when one gets back home completely exhausted, but also with a big smile. One of those days that help recharge your batteries after months of intensive field work and remind you how lucky you are, working in such a unique place. Just one of those unforgettable days.

Joan Gonzalvo

---
Photo credit: FishBase

An unexpected encounter: Mediterranean spearfish near Kalamos

(click on the photo to enlarge it)

The first week of July ended with a mysterious encounter. While navigating on transect we spotted something in the distance. At first it appeared to be waves, possibly even produced by a boat. Nonetheless, we decided to check it out.

Arriving at the position a large school of small fish began to jump synchronously, as if they were a single entity. Soon afterwards, we observed a large fin behind the school. A shark? Maybe... but with the binoculars we could see a peculiar pattern of light and dark blue stripes on the body of the animal.

After seeing a second posterior fin, we moved towards the idea of a swordfish Xiphias gladius - a relatively common encounter in the area. But then, we were wrong again.

Once at home, the digital photographs showed us that the predator was most likely a rather rare and magnificent Mediterranean spearfish Tetrapturus belone preying on a school of garpike Belone belone !

Shiva, Annalise and Silvia

Kalamos, 29 June - 5 July

Before working on this project I was unaware of the severity of the problems facing many of the Cetaceans present within the Mediterranean Sea. After helping research into the common dolphin and bottlenose dolphin and learning of the evident decrease in resident populations of both species, I only hope that action will be taken to prevent the extinction of these species in the Ionian Sea and hopefully to help the population recover.

Alex, U.K.

---

I have enjoyed the last five days working with the Tethys researchers and am pleased to have had the opportunity to contribute to such a worthwhile project. Although I was partly aware of the problems facing marine life due to overfishing and pollution, I didn’t appreciate how urgent the situation is or how severe. The voluntary work has been enjoyable as well as informative; seeing the dolphins, both bottlenose and common, so up close was a unique experience and made the early mornings worth it!

Rebecca, U.K.

---

Great time! Beautiful house, amazing Ionian Sea and Kalamos island and of course WONDERFUL dolphins. Thanks to Silvia, Annalise and Shiva who taught us everything about Mediterranean Sea and dolphins behaviour.

Malgosia & Piotr, Poland